Riyadh is a city straight out of the Middle East whose rise has been fuelled by billions of dollars in oil money that has turned this former desert stronghold into a curious metropolitan mix of bright lights and abayas. If you’re visiting from the region, then Riyadh is perhaps one of the finest examples of Middle Eastern modernity, the capital of a country that has taken Islam as stringently as ever and features the highest mosque in the world. In other words, Riyadh, to many in the Middle East, is an Arab achievement showing economic progress and a deep appreciation at the same time. Still the majority of Western visitors here have arrived on business usually associated with the country’s oil industry, an experience that often takes in any one of the increasingly prevalent, plush hotels that are now dotted throughout Riyadh. Few Western visitors here see many of the sights in the city and none ever gets to have a drink – like in the rest of the country, alcohol is banned here. If you’re looking for an off-the-wall party destination, then look elsewhere. All females are expected to cover up as much as possible, the only respite being the privacy of your hotel room and a handful of places such as the Ladies’ Floor on the second level of the new Kingdom Centre Shopping Mall where the full abaya is actually not allowed. This 300-metre plus skyscraper is yet another huge piece of Riyadh architecture that looks like a giant, futuristic bottle opener that has crash-landed in the centre of the city, perfectly upright. By comparison, the winter days are pleasantly warm and the nights cool. Make no mistake, this is a destination that can be a little uncomfortable for your average Western tourist, but for those prepared to take Riyadh as it comes, the reward is an intriguing destination and insight into a culture that many would argue has – especially in recent years - been little understood. | 
